This is based on a message to a new beekeeper, May 2016. Here's what you'll need (or might want), using the Propolis Etc catalog for details. ========== BASIC HIVE ============= - outer cover [REQUIRED] Here you have three choices of cover type, and a choice of finishes. I recommend the waxed finish, for durability. The telescoping cover (e.g. TC-1120) is the most common one. TC-1220 is the same but insulated; that's the one I'd recommend. There's also a decorative "garden hive top" (TG-1620) which is very cute, but probably a bit less practical. - inner cover [REQUIRED] Get the one with the hole in it - handy for ventilation and when you need to feed. IC-1100. - 2 hive bodies [REQUIRED] Use the deep ones (9-5/8") because that's the size frame you'll be getting from me. Actually, some people use shallower bodies (and matching frames) for the honey supers, but if you have just one or two hives, you'll probably prefer to be able to interchange frames freely between the brood nest and the honey supers, so you'll use the deep size everywhere. The only disadvantage is that when it's full, that size box is quite heavy (up to 90 lbs approx). Syl and I buy HS-1100 (non-assembled) because we decorate them using a torch, then assemble and treat them, but if you don't intend to be fancy, you'll probably find it most expedient to get HS-1350 (assembled waxed) - the extra few dollars for the wax treatment will significantly extend the life of the woodenware. Note: you can also get polystyrene (instead of wood) hive equipment; I have absolutely no experience with it, but it's too darned ugly for use in my garden! - frame rests If your hive body doesn't already have them, I strongly recommend them: they seem to reduce the stickyness and make it easier to scrape off propolis without wrecking the box. I use the "L" type (FR-1100). - 20 frames with foundation [REQUIRED] You'll need the 9-1/8" size to fit the deep hive bodies. Here you have a plethora of choices: wood frame with wax foundation (probably nicest for the bees, but I suspect a pain to maintain and set up; even with the wire reinforcement, I'm not sure how robust they are when placed in a honey extractor / centrifuge), wood with plastic foundation (most of what I have is this type, and it's the type supplied by Alvéole), and plastic with plastic foundation (I'm going to start switching to these - they seem easier to handle and less "sticky" than wood frames). When using plastic foundation, you have a choice of black, white, or beige, and waxed or not. I've been using black waxed: black because it's easier to see eggs on a black background, and waxed because I read that bees don't like plastic and will build comb more readily when there's already a layer of wax present. I'm assuming that you'll give me a new frame for every frame of brood or food that I give you, so for my sake, please get at least one set (10) of PL-1200, and pick whatever you like for the other set. - bottom board [REQUIRED] Another IPM technique is to use a screened bottom board (as opposed to a solid one), and the MAPAQ's recommended method for monitoring varroa mites is the sticky board technique, so you'll want your bottom board to have a "drawer" to take the sticky board when you use it. There are two models: SD-1500, where the drawer opens toward the front of the hive, and SA-1600 "Apinovar", whose drawer opens to the side. I prefer a side opening because I can use the drawer without getting into the bees' flight path, but take into account the type of hive stand you use - some might not permit side access. - hive stand All sorts of fancy stuff is available, though I'm quite satisfied with a few bricks. You need to keep the hive a bit off the ground for the sake of ventilation, and if there are skunks in the area, you might want to lift the hive high enough to force the skunk to expose its underbelly when it tries to feed off guard bees at the entrance to the hive. I handle skunks with "cat scat" (spiky mats) that I get from Lee Valley. Do as you wish for the hive stand. - entrance reducer [REQUIRED] This is used to close the entrance while moving the hive, and also to reduce the size of the opening while the colony is small and not able to defend a larger entrance. (ER-1100) - bees I'll supply those. :-) - queen bee If you take the early split (this week I hope), you'll need to either get a queen (I'm pretty sure that Propolis Etc will have California queens available now), or let the bees raise their own. the advantage of a purchased queen is that the genetics are more reliable, and of course, there isn't a month-long interruption in brood production. On the other hand, the brood interruption can have a beneficial effect in lowering mite counts. If there are other beehives in your vicinity, getting the queen well mated might not pose a problem. On the other hand, you might want to be fairly sure that the bees in your vicinity are Italians, because cross-variety matings can often produce "hot" (highly defensive) bees. If you take my second split (mid- to late June), I'll probably give you my queen, and re-queen my own hive with a young Quebec queen. The Quebec queens will be available in about a month. My queen is two years old, and some authorities suggest re-queening annually or at least every second year; others just let the hive supersede the queen when they judge that their queen is no longer performing. Because I live in the suburbs, I can't risk having the hive swarm because of a weak queen; if you keep your hive in the country, or at any rate away from people who might freak out and complain, that might not be an issue for you. Anyway, my bees are Italians, so unless you'd prefer to work with a different strain, if you get a queen, get an Italian one. - queen excluder This is quite optional, but it makes it easy to keep the brood nest confined to the bottom box(es), and know that the top boxes contain just honey. I bought a nice wooden queen excluder (QE-1100 or QE-LG20, can't remember), but that introduces a bit of extra space, and the bees tend to make burr comb there, which is really annoying. I'd recommend using a plain plastic one (QE-1400). - MAPAQ registration Once you own a hive, you must register as a beekeeper with MAPAQ; their web site has the form, and the fee is under $20. ========== BASIC TOOLS ============ - smoker [REQUIRED] You'll need a smoker to work with the bees while minimizing the risk of stings. I have the SM1100, and it works fine. My neighbour bought the LG-4000, and seems to prefer it. Either is fine. - smoker fuel [REQUIRED] Lots of choices here; Alvéole uses burlap, so mostly that's what we use as well (BT-1200). - hive tool [REQUIRED] The standard HT-1000 works fine for us - we have four of them. I'd recommend having two, so there's always one at ready hand. Other models are available; pick whatever seems comfortable to you. - box lifter You may or may not need this. If you're very strong, you might consider it overkill, but for me, the biggest advantage is that it allows two people to lift a box together. When trying to put a full fourth box back on, let me tell you, this expensive little doohicky more than earns its keep. I'm very impressed at how well this tool works. (FH-5000). - veil I used to work without a veil (and the Alvéole guys never wear one), but two stings to the face have convinced me otherwise. However, I didn't fork over big bucks for an industrial quality veil; I just bought a ten-pack of cheap veils from China, that fit over a wide-brimmed hat. I'll be happy to give you a veil or two; just remind me. Syl wanted something a bit more protective, so I got him this cheap bee jacket: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NJOWK3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 He seems to like it so far. - gloves I don't use gloves - I want to feel what I'm doing to minimize the chances that I'll crush any bees. And it keeps me "honest" - that is, respectful towards the bees. :-) If you'd like to use gloves, you're on your own to choose them. The same goes for any other protective equipment. ========== VARROA TREATMENT ======= - drone frames One of the many IPM (Integrated Pest Management) techniques for keeping the varroa mite under control is to sacrifice drone brood, because the mites reproduce preferentially in drone cells. If you want to use this practice (as I do), you'll need at least one and preferably two drone comb frames (PL-1900). - sticky boards It is *strongly* recommended that you test for varroa at appropriate intervals. I'd suggest equipping yourself with five sticky boards for now. The Alvéole guys do their mite count on just the plain white (non-sticky) drawer (the sticky boards are expensive and can be used only once), but the "sticky" part is supposed to trap mites so they can't climb back into the hive, and the grid on the board makes it easier to keep track of what you've counted. You don't need the special screen when you have a screened bottom board already. (SB-1150) - treatment rim and medication for varroa If you need to treat for varroa, you'll need to get medication. If you use MAQS (Mite-Away Quick Strips), you'll need a treatment rim (RP-1000). ========== HARVEST ================ - bee escape Very optional, and used for only a few days a year, but can make your honey harvest less terrifying by reducing the number of bees left in the honey supers when you take them off. I use the "triangle" type (BE-1220). - bee brush I use that especially at honey harvest time, when I have to get *all* of the bees off the frames, and shaking the frame isn't sufficient. I recommend having one. I think I have BA-1102; there are a few models. - uncapping fork (or electric knife) If you do your own honey harvest, you'll need to uncap the frames of capped honey. There are fancy options available, but I'm pretty happy with a couple of plain uncapping forks (UF-1101 or UF-1300). You can also use a bread knife from the kitchen. - uncapping tank Again, fancy is unnecessary. I use a plain plastic 5-gal bucket, a fitted filter bag (FB-1100), and the "comb capper" (UT-1000). - honey extractor Expensive! Borrow mine. - filters Fancy filters are available, but for tiny operations like ours, I just line a kitchen strainer with some strainer cloth (SC-1100). - honey bucket with gate You can get one ready made (GP-1100) or add a gate (e.g. HG-1100) to an existing pail. Just make sure it's food-grade plastic (#2). You can get #2 plastic pails more cheaply at Canadian Tire. :-) ========== WINTERIZING ============ - mouse guard I used this for the first time this winter, and in addition to the benefit of keeping mice out of the hive during the cold temperatures (while the bees are clustered and cannot defend their entrance), it forms a "porch" over the entrance, which I've found handy in two ways: it keeps the insulation flap up and improves ventilation, and it gives bees a place to drop dead bodies when they can't leave the hive - I cleaned the dead bodies off the porch a few times last winter, saving the bees some trouble, and keeping the ventilation optimal. ER-1110. - bubble wrap If you want to insulate your hive for the winter, there are all sorts of options; this is the one that Alvéole showed us, and it seems to work fine, as well as being relatively inexpensive. (BZ-3451) - styrofoam top Ditto. (BZ-3460) - feeder Assuming you feed in the Fall, the pail feeder (FE-1900) is probably the most practical, though the "ultimate feeder" (FE-1090) is nice too, for smaller quantities. I'd recommend the pail. ========== WEIRD STUFF ============ - slatted bottom board addition - slatted super shim - wire mesh tops/bottoms All of the above is custom made stuff, built by Syl to my specifications. The slatted bottom board is in use at other sites; I took existing plans as inspiration for ours. The slatted super shim is my invention, inspired by a super shim sold by Dadant, and the concept of the slatted bottom board. The wire mesh tops and bottoms are my invention as an improvement over stapling wire mesh to the "empty" hive bodies for winter storage. Beekeeping is great for the inventive do-it-yourselfer! I'll be happy to show off our inventions, and comment on what has worked well and what hasn't. Propolis Etc has "beginner's kits"; I haven't costed out whether they represent a savings from the individual parts, but they don't give you the choice of Apinovar bottom board (my preference) or plastic frames. You might want to calculate it.