This is based on a message to a new beekeeper, May 2016.


Here's what you'll need (or might want), using the Propolis Etc
catalog for details.

========== BASIC HIVE =============

- outer cover [REQUIRED]

  Here you have three choices of cover type, and a choice of finishes.
  I recommend the waxed finish, for durability.  The telescoping cover
  (e.g. TC-1120) is the most common one.  TC-1220 is the same but
  insulated; that's the one I'd recommend.  There's also a decorative
  "garden hive top" (TG-1620) which is very cute, but probably a bit
  less practical.

- inner cover [REQUIRED]

  Get the one with the hole in it - handy for ventilation and when you
  need to feed.  IC-1100.

- 2 hive bodies [REQUIRED]

  Use the deep ones (9-5/8") because that's the size frame you'll be
  getting from me.  Actually, some people use shallower bodies (and
  matching frames) for the honey supers, but if you have just one or
  two hives, you'll probably prefer to be able to interchange frames
  freely between the brood nest and the honey supers, so you'll use
  the deep size everywhere.  The only disadvantage is that when it's
  full, that size box is quite heavy (up to 90 lbs approx).

  Syl and I buy HS-1100 (non-assembled) because we decorate them
  using a torch, then assemble and treat them, but if you don't intend
  to be fancy, you'll probably find it most expedient to get HS-1350
  (assembled waxed) - the extra few dollars for the wax treatment will
  significantly extend the life of the woodenware.

  Note: you can also get polystyrene (instead of wood) hive equipment;
  I have absolutely no experience with it, but it's too darned ugly
  for use in my garden!

- frame rests

  If your hive body doesn't already have them, I strongly recommend
  them: they seem to reduce the stickyness and make it easier to
  scrape off propolis without wrecking the box.  I use the "L" type
  (FR-1100).

- 20 frames with foundation [REQUIRED]

  You'll need the 9-1/8" size to fit the deep hive bodies.  Here you
  have a plethora of choices: wood frame with wax foundation (probably
  nicest for the bees, but I suspect a pain to maintain and set up;
  even with the wire reinforcement, I'm not sure how robust they are
  when placed in a honey extractor / centrifuge), wood with plastic
  foundation (most of what I have is this type, and it's the type
  supplied by Alvéole), and plastic with plastic foundation (I'm going
  to start switching to these - they seem easier to handle and less
  "sticky" than wood frames).  When using plastic foundation, you have
  a choice of black, white, or beige, and waxed or not.  I've been
  using black waxed: black because it's easier to see eggs on a black
  background, and waxed because I read that bees don't like plastic
  and will build comb more readily when there's already a layer of wax
  present.

  I'm assuming that you'll give me a new frame for every frame of
  brood or food that I give you, so for my sake, please get at least
  one set (10) of PL-1200, and pick whatever you like for the other
  set.

- bottom board [REQUIRED]

  Another IPM technique is to use a screened bottom board (as opposed
  to a solid one), and the MAPAQ's recommended method for monitoring
  varroa mites is the sticky board technique, so you'll want your
  bottom board to have a "drawer" to take the sticky board when you
  use it.  There are two models: SD-1500, where the drawer opens
  toward the front of the hive, and SA-1600 "Apinovar", whose drawer
  opens to the side.  I prefer a side opening because I can use the
  drawer without getting into the bees' flight path, but take into
  account the type of hive stand you use - some might not permit side
  access.

- hive stand

  All sorts of fancy stuff is available, though I'm quite satisfied
  with a few bricks.  You need to keep the hive a bit off the ground
  for the sake of ventilation, and if there are skunks in the area,
  you might want to lift the hive high enough to force the skunk to
  expose its underbelly when it tries to feed off guard bees at the
  entrance to the hive.  I handle skunks with "cat scat" (spiky mats)
  that I get from Lee Valley.  Do as you wish for the hive stand.

- entrance reducer [REQUIRED]

  This is used to close the entrance while moving the hive, and also
  to reduce the size of the opening while the colony is small and not
  able to defend a larger entrance. (ER-1100)

- bees

  I'll supply those.  :-)

- queen bee

  If you take the early split (this week I hope), you'll need to
  either get a queen (I'm pretty sure that Propolis Etc will have
  California queens available now), or let the bees raise their own.
  the advantage of a purchased queen is that the genetics are more
  reliable, and of course, there isn't a month-long interruption in
  brood production.  On the other hand, the brood interruption can
  have a beneficial effect in lowering mite counts.  If there are
  other beehives in your vicinity, getting the queen well mated might
  not pose a problem.  On the other hand, you might want to be fairly
  sure that the bees in your vicinity are Italians, because
  cross-variety matings can often produce "hot" (highly defensive)
  bees.

  If you take my second split (mid- to late June), I'll probably
  give you my queen, and re-queen my own hive with a young Quebec
  queen.  The Quebec queens will be available in about a month.
  My queen is two years old, and some authorities suggest re-queening
  annually or at least every second year; others just let the hive
  supersede the queen when they judge that their queen is no longer
  performing.  Because I live in the suburbs, I can't risk having the
  hive swarm because of a weak queen; if you keep your hive in the
  country, or at any rate away from people who might freak out and
  complain, that might not be an issue for you.

  Anyway, my bees are Italians, so unless you'd prefer to work with a
  different strain, if you get a queen, get an Italian one.

- queen excluder

  This is quite optional, but it makes it easy to keep the brood nest
  confined to the bottom box(es), and know that the top boxes contain
  just honey.  I bought a nice wooden queen excluder (QE-1100 or
  QE-LG20, can't remember), but that introduces a bit of extra space,
  and the bees tend to make burr comb there, which is really annoying.
  I'd recommend using a plain plastic one (QE-1400).

- MAPAQ registration

  Once you own a hive, you must register as a beekeeper with MAPAQ;
  their web site has the form, and the fee is under $20.

========== BASIC TOOLS ============

- smoker [REQUIRED]

  You'll need a smoker to work with the bees while minimizing the risk
  of stings.  I have the SM1100, and it works fine.  My neighbour
  bought the LG-4000, and seems to prefer it.  Either is fine.

- smoker fuel [REQUIRED]

  Lots of choices here; Alvéole uses burlap, so mostly that's what we
  use as well (BT-1200).

- hive tool [REQUIRED]

  The standard HT-1000 works fine for us - we have four of them.
  I'd recommend having two, so there's always one at ready hand.
  Other models are available; pick whatever seems comfortable to you.

- box lifter

  You may or may not need this.  If you're very strong, you might
  consider it overkill, but for me, the biggest advantage is that it
  allows two people to lift a box together.  When trying to put a full
  fourth box back on, let me tell you, this expensive little doohicky
  more than earns its keep.  I'm very impressed at how well this tool
  works.  (FH-5000).

- veil

  I used to work without a veil (and the Alvéole guys never wear one),
  but two stings to the face have convinced me otherwise.  However,
  I didn't fork over big bucks for an industrial quality veil; I just
  bought a ten-pack of cheap veils from China, that fit over a
  wide-brimmed hat.  I'll be happy to give you a veil or two; just
  remind me.  Syl wanted something a bit more protective, so I got him
  this cheap bee jacket:
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NJOWK3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  He seems to like it so far.

- gloves

  I don't use gloves - I want to feel what I'm doing to minimize the
  chances that I'll crush any bees.  And it keeps me "honest" - that
  is, respectful towards the bees.  :-)  If you'd like to use gloves,
  you're on your own to choose them.  The same goes for any other
  protective equipment.

========== VARROA TREATMENT =======

- drone frames

  One of the many IPM (Integrated Pest Management) techniques for
  keeping the varroa mite under control is to sacrifice drone brood,
  because the mites reproduce preferentially in drone cells.  If you
  want to use this practice (as I do), you'll need at least one and
  preferably two drone comb frames (PL-1900).

- sticky boards

  It is *strongly* recommended that you test for varroa at appropriate
  intervals.  I'd suggest equipping yourself with five sticky boards
  for now.  The Alvéole guys do their mite count on just the plain
  white (non-sticky) drawer (the sticky boards are expensive and can
  be used only once), but the "sticky" part is supposed to trap mites
  so they can't climb back into the hive, and the grid on the board
  makes it easier to keep track of what you've counted.  You don't
  need the special screen when you have a screened bottom board
  already.  (SB-1150)

- treatment rim and medication for varroa

  If you need to treat for varroa, you'll need to get medication.
  If you use MAQS (Mite-Away Quick Strips), you'll need a treatment
  rim (RP-1000).

========== HARVEST ================

- bee escape

  Very optional, and used for only a few days a year, but can
  make your honey harvest less terrifying by reducing the number of
  bees left in the honey supers when you take them off.  I use the
  "triangle" type (BE-1220).

- bee brush

  I use that especially at honey harvest time, when I have to get
  *all* of the bees off the frames, and shaking the frame isn't
  sufficient.  I recommend having one.  I think I have BA-1102;
  there are a few models.

- uncapping fork (or electric knife)

  If you do your own honey harvest, you'll need to uncap the frames
  of capped honey.  There are fancy options available, but I'm pretty
  happy with a couple of plain uncapping forks (UF-1101 or UF-1300).

  You can also use a bread knife from the kitchen.

- uncapping tank

  Again, fancy is unnecessary.  I use a plain plastic 5-gal bucket,
  a fitted filter bag (FB-1100), and the "comb capper" (UT-1000).

- honey extractor

  Expensive!  Borrow mine.

- filters

  Fancy filters are available, but for tiny operations like ours,
  I just line a kitchen strainer with some strainer cloth (SC-1100).

- honey bucket with gate

  You can get one ready made (GP-1100) or add a gate (e.g. HG-1100)
  to an existing pail.  Just make sure it's food-grade plastic (#2).
  You can get #2 plastic pails more cheaply at Canadian Tire.  :-)

========== WINTERIZING ============

- mouse guard

  I used this for the first time this winter, and in addition to
  the benefit of keeping mice out of the hive during the cold
  temperatures (while the bees are clustered and cannot defend
  their entrance), it forms a "porch" over the entrance, which I've
  found handy in two ways: it keeps the insulation flap up and
  improves ventilation, and it gives bees a place to drop dead bodies
  when they can't leave the hive - I cleaned the dead bodies off the
  porch a few times last winter, saving the bees some trouble, and
  keeping the ventilation optimal.  ER-1110.

- bubble wrap

  If you want to insulate your hive for the winter, there are all
  sorts of options; this is the one that Alvéole showed us, and
  it seems to work fine, as well as being relatively inexpensive.
  (BZ-3451)

- styrofoam top

  Ditto. (BZ-3460)

- feeder

  Assuming you feed in the Fall, the pail feeder (FE-1900) is probably
  the most practical, though the "ultimate feeder" (FE-1090) is nice
  too, for smaller quantities.  I'd recommend the pail.

========== WEIRD STUFF ============

- slatted bottom board addition
- slatted super shim
- wire mesh tops/bottoms

  All of the above is custom made stuff, built by Syl to my
  specifications.  The slatted bottom board is in use at other
  sites; I took existing plans as inspiration for ours.  The slatted
  super shim is my invention, inspired by a super shim sold by
  Dadant, and the concept of the slatted bottom board.  The wire
  mesh tops and bottoms are my invention as an improvement over
  stapling wire mesh to the "empty" hive bodies for winter storage.
  Beekeeping is great for the inventive do-it-yourselfer!  I'll be
  happy to show off our inventions, and comment on what has worked
  well and what hasn't.


Propolis Etc has "beginner's kits"; I haven't costed out whether
they represent a savings from the individual parts, but they don't
give you the choice of Apinovar bottom board (my preference) or
plastic frames.  You might want to calculate it.